The 2022 Riesling Hyland Vineyard Old Vines comes from own-rooted vines planted in 1972. It’s scented of bruised apple, pineapple, bread dough and honey with hints of petrol. The light-bodied palate is dry with concentrated, honeyed flavors. It’s balanced by vibrant, focused acidity and has a long, gently textural finish.

Matured for 10 months in 38% new French oak, the 2022 Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard has open-knit aromas of cranberry, red cherry, mossy bark, damp earth and spice. The medium-bodied palate features concentrated, spicy flavors framed by silky tannins and vibrant acidity, and it has a long, spicy finish. 524 cases were made.

Itata is not typically linked with Chardonnay, but this producer focuses on Burgundian varieties, making delightful examples of both white wine and Pinot Noir. Subtle yet distinct notes of ripe pear mix with zesty aromas of lemon curd on the nose. The palate offers a rich blend of flavors, including golden apples, pear and hints of vanilla.

Light and fresh, with a pleasing mix of red fruit, chalk, roses and orange peel on the nose. A pretty and delicate wine to enjoy now.

This rich and concentrated blend bring a punch of blackberry, cinnamon, and black pepper aromas on the nose. The palate is velvety smooth, with generous tannic structure and flavors of black cherry, currant, barrel spice, and cedar resonating along the finish. Some time in the cellar will soften this nicely. Best 2030–2040.

Tightly woven on the nose, this bottling offers light aromas of honeysuckle, lemon candy, and delicate almond. The palate shows a more tart streak of pan-seared apple and lime juice, with steely minerality.

Aromas of tart berries, maraschino cherry, eucalyptus, and licorice dominate the nose of this wine. The palate brings pithy tannin and ripe flavors of raspberry, candied cherry, and herb mélange through the finish.

This vibrant wine delivers flavors of black cherry, tart raspberry, cinnamon, and orange peel on the nose. The palate is zippy and buoyant, with pithy texture, bright acid, and flavors of pomegranate, berry gastrique, cedar, and rose petals lingering through the finish.

Balanced and approachable with sweet aromas of red fruit and baking spices. The full body is round and complete with juicy acidity and integrated tannins. Drink now.

Black fruit, figs and toasty oak are building blocks for a full and decadent wine with a ripe palate and flavors of roasted cherries and plums. Creaminess and richness on the midpalate lead to sweet, chewy tannins. Drink now.

A vibrant white, with a juicy and tight mix of lime sherbet, pear and lemon flavors, plus notes of ginger and lemongrass, all on a sleek, mouthwatering frame. Lemon sorbet, lemon verbena and crunchy star fruit flavors sing on the finish. Drink now. 28,745 cases made.

An elegant white, showing a weightless mix of pear, apple and citrus flavors, with details of lime zest and pastry, plus green cardamom. Offers touches of almond toffee and honeysuckle on the finish. Drink now. 280 cases made.

The 2014 Far Coast Blanc de Blancs comes from a vineyard planted on uplifted seabed just four miles from the Pacific Ocean. Base wines were matured for 15 months in used French oak barrels, and it spent 88 months en tirage. Disgorged in August of 2024, it has rich, autolytic aromas accented by nuances of candle smoke, saline, orchard fruit and citrus peel. With just 0.2 grams per liter dosage, the light-bodied palate is dry with soft, creamy mousse and rich, savory, brioche-laced flavors. It’s balanced by firm, focused acidity and has a long, nutty finish. Only 90 cases were made.

Pouring a youthful ruby color, the 2022 Chianti Classico is a departure from the focus of
this report, with these wines coming from Castelnuovo Berardenga. The nose is supple and
inviting with aromas of candied berries, crushed flowers, and sweet herbs. It moves
seamlessly to the palate with refined tannins and an elegant lift of fresh acidity to close it
out. It’s a highly appealing red to drink over the next 5-7 years.

The 2023 Pinot Noir Zena Crown Vineyard has pretty aromas of
raspberry, blackberry, mixed tea leaves, dried flowers and earth.
The palate offers understated, crunchy flavors, silky tannins,
vibrant acidity and a perfumed finish. 235 cases were made.

The 2023 Chardonnay Russian River Valley is composed of fruit from Hartford Court's estate vineyards plus purchased fruit. Barrel-fermented and matured for eight months in 21% new oak, it has soaring scents of yellow peach, grapefruit, panna cotta, orange blossoms and honey. The full-bodied palate balances concentrated citrus and saline flavors with vibrant acidity, and it has a long, energetic finish. 21,000 cases were made.

Muddled plum, nutmeg and clove aromas make for a spicy nose on this bottling. The palate pops with pomegranate and hibiscus flavors that are a bit tart but warmed up with toasty sagebrush by the finish.

Aromas of baked cherry, salted plum, roasted mushroom and rose petals waft from the glass of this Pinot. The palate is a balance between rich tannins and orange peel acidity, with bright cherry, berry, spice and earth character coming into focus on the finale.

Plush aromas of cherry cordial and black cardamom rather rich and inviting on the nose of this bottling. The palate shows a more tart side, with light game flavors arising alongside red plum and sour cherry fruits.

This fresh and zippy Chard brings aromas of fresh lemon, tart pineapple, and green apple on the nose. The palate delivers bright acidity with flavors of Meyer lemon, lemon verbena, brioche, and zesty lime through the finish.

Cinnamon- and vanilla-spiced baked apples reflect the oak that’s still being absorbed, yet with plenty of potential for the future. A solid spine of acidity and minerality rides alongside lemon pith, papaya and a hint of hazelnuts through the finish. Best after 2026.

There is a saline freshness to this otherwise ripe wine, that counterpoint resulting in a lovely sense of tension through tropical and stone fruits layered with vanilla, almond wafers and citrus oils. Drink or hold.

This Cabernet teams with 19% Merlot for a wine that is sinewy and crunchy with a plethora of flavors, from rose petals and cassis to cranberry and a touch of sweet jerky. A final dusting of powdered chocolate offers a chef’s kiss. Tannins are sprite and drying, with a rustic quality. It is understated and delicious.

Retail $20. Very Responsible Bottle (482g; 16.9oz). Under screw cap. You know, Matanzas Creek does not get enough credit, at least in my book, for its influence in the history of Sonoma County wine. Founding winemaker? Merry Edwards and David Ramey was also a winemaker at Matanzas Creek; two legendary figures in Sonoma County. Add that the winery was instrumental in creating the Bennet Valley AVA, and well, the history of wine in Sonoma just can’t be told without at least a chapter on Matanzas Creek. Jackson Family Wines bought the property in 2000, and the family has managed it since, maintaining the high standards set since its founding in 1977. So when this Chenin Blanc, which I feel is one of the most under-appreciated varieties in the world, and is barely present in California, landed on my doorstep? Giddy-up. Great tree fruit and hints of citrus on the nose with a dab of minerality and a dose of florality, and wait, this is twenty bucks?? The palate is fruity and focused but also round and robust, this is a delightful representation of the variety and a testament to the fact that Matanzas Creek is still a leader in Sonoma County. Bravo.

Leads with a burst of open-knit but persistent red and black cherry compote flavors. Modestly juicy energy keeps the fruit going, while subtle notes of cedar, iris and iron peek through the understated finish. Drink now through 2035.