The 2011 Zinfandel Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard, from vines that were planted over 100 years ago, is pure minerality. Reticent and intensely saline, the 2011 is intriguing, but also quite shut down today. Exotic citrus peel and floral notes emerge over time, but readers will have to be patient. Today, the Fanucchi-Wood Road is very much closed in on itself. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021.

USA, Oregon: 2016 Vintage – Part Two A blend of 53% Chardonnay and 47% Pinot Noir with two years' tirage, the NV Brut Rosé is pale to medium salmon-pink in color with an open nose of Meyer lemon, chamomile flowers, red apples, cream and toast. It's dry and gregarious in the mouth, with lively red berries flavors accented by apple and toast. It has great crushed rock minerality and crisp acidity with persistent mousse and a long berry finish. This was disgorged in April 2017.

The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 27 months in French oak. This wine has huge tannins, big structure, and a muscular character. Plenty of white chocolate, blackcurrant, unsmoked cigar tobacco and mulberry are all present in this big, muscular, powerful wine that is built for the long-term. Don’t touch it for another 5-7 years, and drink it over the following 30 years.

A wine I haven’t seen before from Freemark Abbey is the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford. This wine is a selection from their Bosché, Sycamore and Red Barn vineyards in Rutherford. This is a relatively small cuvée of just under 2,000 cases, but an outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon. Black olive tapenade, blackberry, black cherry, blackcurrants and licorice are all present in this full-bodied wine that also shows a touch of earth, a full-bodied mouthfeel, sweet tannin and a long finish. Interestingly, this is a blend of 83.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.3% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc aged just over 24 months in oak. It should drink well for 15-20 years.

Bright ruby-red. Complex, brooding nose offers black plum, black raspberry, cedar, licorice, tobacco and slatey minerality; reminded me of a Medoc wine. Then sweet, dense and stylish, with nicely integrated acidity giving lift to the concentrated dark fruit and mineral flavors. Serious, seamless wine, finishing with building tannins and excellent length. The addition of some cabernet from To Kalon Vineyard helps to fill out the middle palate of this wine.

Good medium ruby. Medicinal black fruits and flowers on the n0ose. supple, dense and rather suave, with more complexity and spice character than the Helena Montana 2002. Very French in its combination of breadth and uncompromising dryness. The subtle finish shows sneaky, palate-coating length. Very suave wine. Helena Montana is like Latour, while Helena Dakota is more Lafite, says Jess Jackson, hopefully. I underrated this wine a year ago.

Cabernet Sauvignon with about 10% each merlot and cab franc) Good medium ruby. Complex nose melds cassis, plum, black cherry, minerals and cedar, plus hints of pepper and torrefaction. Sweet, bright and vibrant, with a slightly wild character and very firm acidity. A suggestion of wine-like coffee add nuance. I like this blend's tannin/acid backbone and length, but give this aromatic wine at least a couple years in bottle to stretch out.

100% cabernet sauvignon, from six-year-old vines on very thin mountainside soil) Deep red-ruby. Pungent aromas of black fruits, licorice, tar and menthol suggest a rocky minerality. Dense, thick and minerally, but with a very light touch. Strong minerality and bright acidity give shape to the medicinal black cherry flavor. Finishes long, juicy and aromatic, with insidious building tannins coating the front teeth.

(82% cabernet sauvignon, 9% merlot, 7% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot) Good full medium ruby. Claret-like aromas and flavors of nutty red fruits, licorice, herbs and graphite, with a light floral element. Round, lush and sweet, in a pliant, forward style. But nicely juicy owing to a firm edge of minerally acidity. The broad finish features substantial dusty tannins that reach the teeth. This offers considerable early appeal.

Good bright, pale yellow. Bright, tight aromas of lemon, pear and brown spices. A bit aggressive on entry, then bigger and broader but less precise in the mid-palate than the Broken Road bottling. This more masculine, saline, tactile chardonnay will need some time to reveal itself.

Good medium ruby. Distinct medicinal cast to the aromas of black cherry, violet, licorice and menthol. Juicier, tighter and more imploded than the Keyes Vineyard example, with an element of fruity peppercorn giving lift to the middle palate. The substantial dusty tannins arrive late, allowing this very primary young wine to unwind a bit.

Good full ruby. More brooding, medicinal aromas of cassis, black cherry and mint. Then surprisingly sweet and fat in the mouth, with rather chunky flavors of black cherry, dark chocolate, tobacco and cigar box. Here the tannins are a bit more rustic. I'd give this one three or four years in the bottle.

Good full ruby. Highly aromatic nose of blackberry, black cherry, leather and spices, with complicating mineral, herbal and earth notes. At once creamy and juicy on the palate, with black fruit, mint and earth flavors. Still a bit youthfully brutal on the end, finishing with building tannins.

(100% cabernet sauvignon) Good deep ruby. Cassis, violet and licorice aromas are complicated by oaky torrefaction and lifted by a peppery element; darker and more brooding than the basic bottling. A step up in depth and sweetness but this is still a baby today. This, too, has the stuffing to support its tannins. Finishes with very good energy and length.

Bright ruby. Aromas of blackberry, violet and licorice pastille, with a subtle meaty nuance. Juicy, minerally and penetrating but tightly coiled and on the youthful side, with medicinal red and dark fruit flavors showing a slightly bitter edge. Finishes on a note of licorice, with excellent clarity and serious grip.

Bright ruby. Seductive aromas of red and dark berry preserves, cola and smoky herbs. Sweet, sappy black raspberry and cherry-cola flavors are framed by velvety tannins and gain weight, spiciness and a licorice pastille quality with air. The spice and cola notes carry through a long, alluringly sweet, youthfully gripping finish. I'll bet this will be better with a few more years of aging.

Bright red. Cherry-cola, raspberry and vanilla bean on the nose. Smoky dark berry flavors are enlivened by zesty minerals and pick up a candied floral quality with air. This packs a lot of flavor, but needs time to stretch out. Becomes deeper and chewier with air and finishes with solid grip and powerful thrust.

Deep red with a bright rim. Intensely aromatic bouquet shows red berries, cherry jam, Indian spices and smoky minerals. Deep and juicy, with pliant, medium-bodied red berry flavors, silky texture and a strong jolt of red licorice on the close. Tannins slowly build on the long, sappy finish, but don't detract from the pure, sweet red fruit. The spiciness of this wine is compelling.

Dark red. Deep cherry and dark berry aromas show rooty, cola and herbal qualities reminiscent of a wine from Morey-Saint-Denis. Suave bitter cherry and blackcurrant flavors are framed and enlivened by juicy acidity. Fleshes out on the finish, with the cherry and cola qualities repeating. This is the most backward of this impressive set of pinots.

Dark red. Deep cherry and dark berry aromas show rooty, cola and herbal qualities reminiscent of a wine from Morey-Saint-Denis. Suave bitter cherry and blackcurrant flavors are framed and enlivened by juicy acidity. Fleshes out on the finish, with the cherry and cola qualities repeating. This is the most backward of this impressive set of pinots.

Enticing aromas of orange zest and minerals. Juicy, tightly wound and sharply delineated, with flavors of lemon drop and minerals firmed by ripe acids. Finishes vibrant and quite long. This should age nicely for five to seven years.

In this high-elevation Sauvignon Blanc, aromas convey Meyer lemon, white grapefruit, melon, green guava, and mineral on the nose. The palate is fresh with lively white peach, green tea, yellow apple, honeysuckle, and more acidity and mineral to finish.

This wine features aromas of crushed red raspberry, licorice, and cherry liqueur on the nose. The palate brings zippy acidity and plush tannin, with flavors of berry coulis, purple flowers, and cinnamon through the finish.

The 2022 Chardonnay Brosseau Vineyard is all about minerality. An intense array of crushed stones, limestone, resinous herbs and lemon peel settles with real heft. It’s a broad, rounded Chardonnay that really expresses terroir, even if it’s soft around the edges.

The 2022 Pinot Noir Edmeades Vineyard, from an estate site in Anderson Valley, is another wine in this range that shows mineral depth ahead of fruit expression, which makes for a complex translation of site. Rose petal, orange peel and white pepper tones pick up steam through the understated, chalky finish. Quite delicate.