Pale, bright yellow. Initially closed nose opened to reveal steely, Puligny-like white peach, nutmeg, mint and crushed stone aromas. Dense but airy and dry; tactile and silky-smooth but with a lovely light touch. Today this very subtle young wine is showing more minerality than primary fruit. Finishes broad and weightless. Give this a couple years in the cellar. This stunning set of chardonnays made by winemaker Graham Weerts, who is from South Africa, was one of the revelations of my tastings of California wine this spring.

Bright ruby-red. High-toned, sexy aromas of black cherry, blueberry, licorice, graphite and sweet oak. Plush, sweet and pliant, with a wonderfully polished texture to the intense flavors of brambly dark berry, coffee and licorice. Finishes lush and very long, with building, fine-grained tannins and considerable elegance. This will be even better for five or six years in the cellar.

Medium ruby. Reticent but very pure aromas of blueberry, cassis, licorice and menthol. Shockingly rich and sweet but very young, showing superb concentration to its cassis flavor complemented by sexy oak tones. This really vibrates on the very long finish, where the wine's powerful mountain tannins are buried in fruit. Less showy today than the Howell Mountain cabernet but with outstanding long-term potential.

Good medium ruby. An essence of cabernet on the nose, with blackberry, licorice and floral aromas complicated by an exotic suggestion of fruity tropical chocolate. Then large-scaled, fat and sweet in the mouth, with highly concentrated black raspberry and chocolate flavors. The powerful mountain tannins coat the front teeth. Like a cabernet syrup today, in need of at least seven or eight years of aging and likely to be long-lived.

Good full ruby. Elemental, extremely primary nose features grapey blackberry, licorice and violet pastille. Big, sweet, broad and creamy; a huge, powerful wine with slightly rustic flavors of dark chocolate and minerals. Finishes with compelling sweetness of fruit, and very broad tannins that arrive late. From a block of vines that was recently torn out due to phylloxera. The richest of this trio of cabernets. Winemaker Chris Carpenter notes that the intention here is to make three wines of place by using neutral winemaking techniques. The only difference among the wines is maceration times, he added. All three of these bottlings are close to 15% alcohol.

Polished and generous, with salted butterscotch, panna cotta and buttery shortbread flavors that show plenty of intensity alongside notes of peach preserves, honey, sesame candy and dried pineapple. Jasmine and lemon blossom details linger on the long, expressive finish. Drink now through 2038.

An impressive white, offering generous notes of lemon meringue, lemon confit and tangerine that are juicy and fresh, with a drizzle of wildflower honey, ginger paste, baked peach and marmalade, plus hints of spices and salted butter shortbread. Vivid, intense and set alongside mouthwatering acidity. Drink now through 2041.

Wines from the Itata Valley are known for their expressiveness, and this Pinot Noir is no exception. An aromatic nose of red fruit and delicate sweet spices introduces a palate where hints of nutmeg, graphite, berries, and herbs are perfectly balanced by vibrant acidity.

From a selection of vineyards in Stellenbosch comes this vibrant Chardonnay. The nose and palate offer a blend of baking spices and Meyer lemon, accompanied by balancing acidity. Hints of pear provide length to the finish. Sovereign Wine Imports.

Pretty floral tones of elderflower and acacia embrace fresh apricot, crushed yellow apple and wild cherry notes, while scents of cardamom and sage bring further layers of complexity. Though subtle on the nose, this is voluminous on the palate, with a slightly oily texture that lends real presence through the long, spice-tinged finish. Drink now through 2034.

This is impressive, with a generous and juicy mix of pineapple, peach and apricot pastry notes that are bold and ripe but still show refinement and mouthwatering acidity. Details of pineapple mint, crunchy sea salt, lemon oil and yuzu add extra energy on the finish, along with a ginger tea hint. Drink now through 2038.

The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is a deep opaque red hue and delivers aromas of blackcurrants, leather, baking spice, nutmeg, and walnut. Full-bodied, fleshy, and ripe, it’s already drinking beautifully today, with impressive depth and richness, though there is a touch of baked fruit for my palate. Scheduled for release this fall. Drink 2026-2040.

The 2022 Cabernet Franc pours a saturated black/red hue with black plum, espresso, dark chocolate, blackberries, sandalwood, and nervous tea-like aromatics. Full-bodied yet compactly fresh, it has chewy tannins and real grip through the finish while never becoming heavy. Drink now or over the next decade. Drink 2026-2036.

There's an herbal array of sagebrush, thyme and potpourri on the nose of this bottling, and then comes a rush of cherry, pomegranate and raspberry aromas. The palate pairs bay leaf with ruby red grapefruit and juicy cherry flavors, proving both complex and fun.

The 2022 Windracer Bloomfield Vineyard Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley opens with a luminous ruby hue framed by a vivid pink edge, immediately suggesting its lively personality. Fragrant notes of red cherries, wild rose petals, and mulberry intertwine with hints of warm brioche, offering an inviting aromatic lift. On the palate, the wine leans into a sleeker expression, carrying tart boysenberry, fresh sage, and a gentle whisper of cola that weave together with clarity. Moderate tannins and vibrant acidity shape the medium to full-bodied profile, allowing the fruit and herbal tones to finish with poise and tension. 207 cases produced.

Vibrant aromas of Meyer lemon, green apple, chopped green herbs, and citrus blossom jump from the glass on the nose of this wine. The palate balances precise acid and rounded mouthfeel, displaying flavors of sliced citrus, tart nectarine, hazelnut, lemon thyme, sage, and salty lime peel across the finish.

The nose of this powerful wine delivers aromas of blackberry coulis, spiced plum compote, dark chocolate, and worn leather on the nose. The palate feels concentrated and generous, with flavors of blueberry gastrique, plum liqueur, violets, anise, cinnamon, and clove in a framework of potent tannin.

The 2023 Siduri Van der Kamp Vineyard Pinot Noir from Sonoma Mountain spent 14 months maturing in 40% new French oak and delivers both depth and precision. The bouquet opens with ripe Bing cherries, wild strawberry, and crushed rose petals, framed by hints of nutmeg and forest floor. On the palate, it unfolds in graceful layers of marionberries and red plum accented by whispers of allspice and cedar. Firm yet velvety tannins provide shape and tension, leading into a polished, spice-tinged finish that carries traces of tea leaf and earthy minerality. 154 cases made.

The 2024 Siduri Barbieri Vineyard Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley carries a luminous ruby sheen and a tightly wound, savory frame. Black raspberry, red plum, crushed violets, white pepper, and a smooch of cola move through a palate shaped by brisk acidity and saline tension. There is generous ripeness here, yet the wine stays energetic, with a slightly angular edge that gives the richness definition. Savory depth gathers through the finish, leaving notes of cherry skin, forest floor, and dried herbs.

The 2021 Matanzas The Journey Red Wine from Sonoma County carries a firm, full-bodied frame, yet its concentration is delivered with polish rather than weight. Notes of cassis, huckleberry, crushed slate, violet, and worn saddle leather move through the glass with a brooding, savory depth. The palate is layered and grounded, drawing black plum and mulberry into a mineral spine that keeps the richness composed. It finishes with dark-toned fruit, dusty earth, and enough structural grip to reward a few years of cellaring.

The 2022 La Crema Skycrest Vineyard Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley carries a cool, stony tension beneath its generous frame. Black cherry, mulberry, and crushed pomegranate move through notes of lavender, bay leaf, damp gravel, and forest herbs. The palate is medium-plus-bodied, polished and energetic, with dark fruit drawn tightly around a fine chalky grip and a subtle coniferous lift. It finishes with poise, mineral firmness, and a savory wildness that keeps the richness beautifully controlled.

The 2022 La Crema Sealift Vineyard Pinot Noir from the West Sonoma Coast maintains its coastal tension with ease. Black raspberry, blood orange peel, red plum, and cedary herbs move through a supple, medium-bodied frame, lifted by brisk acidity and finely smoothed tannins. A quiet thread of Bing cherry and toasted anise adds detail without weighing down the fruit. The finish is vibrant, textured, and beautifully composed.

The 2023 Kendall-Jackson Cloud Landing Pinot Noir from Petaluma Gap carries the imprint of its windswept, fog-cooled knoll, where clay-rich soils lend shape to the wine's supple frame. A polished oak accent threads through red currant, wild strawberry, crushed cedary herbs, ground clove, and graphite. Medium-bodied and lively, it moves with bright acidity, smooth tannins, and a generous yet composed texture. The finish is lifted and savory, suggesting graceful drinking over the next 6-8 years.

The 2022 Gran Moraine ‘Yamhill-Carlton’ Pinot Noir was stored in mainly neutral oak before bottling. It is soft, juicy and delicious with delightful guava and red raspberry fruits alongside garrigue and salty soils. Great to enjoy now, savor this beauty over the next decade. Drink 2026-2036

Fresh and neatly-textured, the 2023 Gran Moraine ‘Yamhill-Carlton’ Pinot Noir offers bright strawberry and loganberry fruits that meld with Satsuma orange zest and shades of cardamom with rocky nuances. Drink 2026-2036