The 2023 Helena Dakota Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) is deep garnet-purple in color. It needs a little swirling to unlock notes of crème de cassis, blackberry preserves, and black cherries, leading to suggestions of dark chocolate, licorice, and iron ore. Full-bodied, the palate is packed with muscular black fruit layers, supported by firm, grainy tannins and great tension, finishing on a lingering ferrous note. 

Composed of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot, the 2023 La Joie comes barreling out with powerful notes of plum preserves, crème de cassis, and molten licorice, leading to hints of bay leaves, graphite, and sandalwood with a waft of violets. Full-bodied, the palate has a rock-solid structure of firm, grainy tannins and fantastic tension supporting the concentrated black fruit layers, finishing long and savory. 

Silk. That's the first word that comes to mind with this Yangarra High Sands Grenache.
There is an incredible sense of delicacy and precision here, yet beneath the prettiness sits
a quiet tension that gives the wine remarkable presence.
Planted in 1946, these certified organic and biodynamic bush vines are rooted in six metres
of pure silica sand, and that sandy foundation seems to bring an almost effortless elegance
to the wine.
For the first time, 15% whole bunch contributes to the final blend, while the remainder is
selectively sorted, destemmed and fermented with 50% whole berries retained. Wild yeast
fermentation in ceramic egg and small open top stainless steel fermenters, followed by a
long, gentle maceration, has resulted in a wine where purity of fruit is front and centre.
Blueberries, mulberries, delicate raspberries and raspberry coulis glide across the palate,
joined by a nostalgic flicker of raspberry rope. The fruit is joyous, pristine and beautifully
shaped, yet never feels overly sweet or weighty. The tannins are fine and graceful, creating
a seamless framework that allows the fruit to float. There's a wonderful sense of flow and
feel, with that silica sand seemingly translating into that prettiness and finesse. Then, just
when you think the wine has revealed everything, a subtle tension arrives late, tightening
the palate and adding another dimension. I watched this evolve over a couple of days and it
just kept getting better and better. There's the structure and purity to age beautifully, but if
you're drinking it now, give it a proper decant and embrace the beauty. Incredible as ever.

Capensis’ world-class Fijnbosch Chardonnay hails from the highest vineyard in Stellenbosch, overlooking the Simonsberg at 600 metres on decomposed granite and sandstone soils. Still very fresh after four years in barrel and bottle, it has perfumed 50% new oak, remarkable purity and focus, chiselled acidity, flavours of lime, vanilla and lemongrass and impressive energy and va-va-voom.

Prominently herbaceous on the nose, this cool-climate Syrah shows bramble and black raspberry aromas as well as meatier, savory notes. The palate recalls Cornas-like flavors of thyme and listed pepper, as the fruity core of boysenberry is balanced by chalky tannins. Drink now-2044.

54/46% cabernet sauvignon/shiraz. This is a bit of an homage, inspired some years ago by a bottle of the iconic Bin 60A at the equally iconic Victory Hotel. Cabernet leads here, scented with fragrant leafy notes, tobacco, mulberry, currant and cedar, then blackberry, a mineral, iron-rich note, some buoyant red and black fruits, a certain exuberance, some levity. A tarry mineral quality, lightly expressed, ground anise, green cardamom, iodine. There are quiet vanillin notes from oak of the highest quality, some cracked pepper and spice. The fine detail, tannic finesse and elegance are admirable. It’s in such a beautifully classic vein, and it’s extraordinarily successful.

Still rather tight, this percolates with a steady, succulent feel through its dense core of boysenberry, blackberry and morello cherry paste flavors as they unwind slowly on the finish, where graphite, smoldering anise and black tea details emerge. Grippy and sapid, this is built for those with patience. Best from 2030 through 2050.—J.M.

Beautifully rendered, this manages to put forth steeped boysenberry, morello cherry and red currant fruit paste notes that sparkle with inner energy, while anise, bramble, black tea and wood spice details emerge steadily. Sapid, long and seriously grippy, but with freshness and drive, this is set up for a long, slow evolution. Best from 2030 through 2050.—J.M.

This offers up seductive aromatics of mulled anise, black tea and bay leaf, while a core of sappy mulberry, blackberry compote and boysenberry pâte de fruit rolls through with authority. Ample, iron-laced grip and racy acidity course underneath and give the dense core time to slowly unwind as a smoldering wood spice note chimes amid the fruit. There will be a long wait for this red’s peak, but it will be well worth it. Best from 2030 through 2050.—J.M.

The most complete wine yet released under the Giant Steps Bastard Hill name; which is saying something. Intensity, length, texture and X-factor are all so beautifully realised here. It tastes of grapefruit, nashi pear, almond butter, white peach and citrus, with a gentle run of brine carried throughout. Not only is this the most complete GS Bastard Hill; it’s also the most approachable on release. You could hook in right now and be blissfully happy. There’s a chalky/mineral/talc-like/chamomile aspect to the aftertaste which too is just such a delight to behold.

From the Sexton vineyard in Gruyere planted in the late '90s. 100% destemmed, 22% new wood. More black fruits than red fruits, stewed rhubarb, a little earth and iodine, too. This follows through onto the darkly fruited, compact and firmly structured palate. The most closed of the four single-vineyard wines today but one that will reward at least a decade, or more, in your cellar.

Mainly destemmed. A medium-bright crimson. A touch richer and more opulent than the '24. Having said that, this is still a supremely perfumed wine, with aromas of alpine fruits, herbal bitters, orange peel, sandalwood and light rose petal. Medium bodied, with lovely mid-palate intensity and energy. The tannins are just so silky and long. Classic Upper Yarra pinot that will reward cellaring over the next eight to 10 years.

A blend of Gingin and Bernard clones planted in '97 in Gruyere. Fermented and matured in mainly puncheons and one new 1200L foudre. Expressive with aromas of stone fruits, candied ginger, grapefruit and roasted hazelnut. Just as good on the beautifully concentrated mid-palate, finishing with mouth-watering acidity on the very long, pithy finish. An excellent Sexton to drink now and over the next six to eight years.

Prominently herbaceous on the nose, this cool-climate Syrah shows bramble and black raspberry aromas as well as meatier, savory notes. The palate recalls Cornas-like flavors of thyme and listed pepper, as the fruity core of boysenberry is balanced by chalky tannins. Drink now-2044.

Layers of red currant and black strawberry interlace with aromatics of baking spices, vanilla cream, molasses, and sarsaparilla on the nose of this wine. On the palate, lively flavors of Bing cherry, ripe raspberry, cinnamon,and clove glide into silky tannins on the finish. Drink now or cellar until 2038.

From an old-vine Chardonnay site, this wine offers concentrated aromas of honeyed stone fruit, citrus, tropical fruit, white florals, alpine sage, and sedimentary rock on the nose. The flavors on the palate are baked Asian pear, Pink Lady apple, pomelo, citrus rind, vanilla cream, clove, and ample mineral on the finish. Drink now or cellar until 2035.

Opulent, this wine offers aromatics of dark black plum, dark cherry, sage brush, cinnamon, sandalwood, vanilla bean and dried floral on the nose. Flavors on the palate convey pomegranate-raspberry coulis, sorrel, allspice, molasses, bittersweet chocolate, and silky tannins to finish. Drink now or cellar until 2037.

Lifted aromas of dark raspberry are layered with clove, star anise, black strawberry, mineral, and dried potpourri on the nose of this wine. The mouthfeel is concentrated with dark plum, cinnamon, and candied orange zest, simmering into mouthwatering pomegranate, blood orange, spice, and supple acidity on the finish. Drink now or cellar until 2038.

Fresh, this wine offers aromatics of ocean air, citrus, stone fruit, alpine florals, sagebrush, yellow plum, honeysuckle, and sedimentary rock on the nose. The flavors on the palate are youthful yellow apple, white nectarine, white peach, allspice, cinnamon, coriander, and supple acidity on the finish. Drink now or cellar until 2035.

Great intensity here, showing the power of the vintage without drifting into the tropical spectrum, instead offering notes of salted nuts, preserved lemons, honeysuckle and crushed stones. The palate is textural with fine phenolic grip, balanced acidity and a strong core of fruit. 50% skin contact for 140 days and aged 100% in ceramic. Ready to drink but will bring plenty of pleasure with time in the bottle. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

What an excellent release. Aromas of fresh plums, dark cherries, blood oranges and citrus peel with spices, sea spray, pomegranate, summer flowers and potpourri. The plush, rounded palate has an underlying power and fruit intensity cut by refined yet firmly framed tannins and a bright line of acidity. Harmonious. Aged in ceramic eggs with no oak. From vines planted in 1946. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Fresh and vibrant with fruit-driven aromas of wild red and black berries, pomegranate, red-apple skin and dark cherries alongside spices, red licorice, rose petals, violets and dried strawberries. The pure, refined palate has generous texture brought together by firmly framed tannins and a bright line of acidity, while the seamlessly integrated structure gives this wine years of aging potential. A lovely

mineral tension underpins the fruit, adding to the seriousness of this excellent release. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

A lovely balance of savory fruit and soil, lifted by perfume and freshness. Aromas of citrus peel, blood oranges, black cherries, pomegranate, sea spray and charcuterie, alongside iron, potpourri and dried raspberries. The palate is textural, rounded and finely tuned, with firmly framed yet polished tannins and a saline edge. An earthy herbal tone supports the fruit. Really expressive and generous with plenty of structure and an underlying power that will unravel for years to come. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

There's a lovely spiced citrus, apple, pear combo that makes for a heady orchard fruit nose which is underscored by more flinty, nutty notes. A beautiful line of bright acidity lifts, juxtaposing the creamier, toastier notes that add depth and texture. A classic wine that beautifully demonstrates just how seriously strong Australia's Chardonnay game is. Drink now and for over a decade at least.

The 2022 Le Désir is a similarly dark youthful red hue and offers floral notes,
pencil shavings, compact black and red fruits, and black raspberries. Fullbodied, it has wonderful balance, refined tannins, and refreshing acidity while
remaining light on its feet. A very impressive 2022 that I’d absolutely
recommend seeking out, drink it over the coming 15-20 years, though it may
show earlier than expected. It reminds the winemaker of 2013, though with
more red fruit.