Good bright ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of cassis, black cherry, graphite, iron, tobacco, menthol and spice cake. Lush and broad on entry, then sweeter and lusher in the middle palate than the Muse, with a captivating chocolatey quality and outstanding volume. As rich and full as this is, there's no sense of excess weight. Finishes long, dense and palate-saturating with major dusty tannins. This Pauillac is sweeter and deeper than Seillan's Pomerol, a comment on the comparative quality of cabernet sauvignon and merlot in California's North Coast.

Very pale yellow. Captivating nose combines exotic apricot, white plum, crushed rock, brown spices and a lavender high note. Intense and tactile on entry, then tightly coiled and penetrating in the middle, a step up over the foregoing wines in its impression of acid spine. Very powerful, youthfully aggressive, palate-staining wine that will need time in bottle to open and expand. Less thick and sweet at the same stage than the 2008, but at the same time more glycerol than the 2009 Gravel Bench. A great example of a California chardonnay, by which I mean that I would not mistake it for Burgundy in a blind tasting.

Intense and generous, with a mouthful of peach, ripe and salted melon, and papaya, plus a whiff of guava. Clover honey, lemon verbena, shortbread and grey sea salt further entice, with flavors of lemon bar and mango puree on the finish. Toasted sesame seed and a vivid thread of acidity weave in and out. Drink now through 2040.

Offers a stunning and expressive mix of bright, fresh citrus that’s fresh and mouthwatering, with elements of passion fruit, honeysuckle and buttermilk panna cotta. Honey cake, tangerine and orange blossom notes linger alongside a cardamom syrup detail. Drink now through 2039.

A textbook ’21, with sleek, fresh and vivid flavors of boysenberry, blackberry and cassis that drive through, laced liberally with iris, ink, sage and sassafras notes. A bright iron detail twangs on the finish, along with a tug of warm earth. Shows lovely energy throughout. Drink now through 2040. 108 cases made.

An interesting new wine has joined the Giant Steps stable—a blend of all the estate's single vineyards. There's a whisper of reductive hoisin mushroom funk here at first sniff that adds a dimension to the spiced cherry and blueberry cake aromas. Earthy, herbal vibes follow. It's mid-weight, round, even voluptuous on the palate, a silkiness to the ripe fruit that's tempered by fine, spice-flecked tannins and a lift of mouth-watering acidity. Elegant but with meat on its bones, this is a complete wine now but one with good aging potential, too.

White sage, lemon balm and vetiver notes add an aromatic, floral and herbal overtone to the crisp, precise core of lemon sherbet, lime curd and litsea oil. Lime zest, ripe Bartlett pear, freshly grated ginger and crunchy star fruit flavors linger on a sleek, mouthwatering frame. Drink now through 2038.—M.W.

A superspicy, modern Gallo Nero, showing vanilla, coconut, cassis and eucalyptus. Medium-bodied, firm and extracted, with crisp acidity and velvety tannins that are a bit sticky at the moment but will evolve. Polished graphite finish. Drinkable now but best from 2027.

From a collection of blocks ranging from 800 to 1800 feet elevation, the 2023 Chardonnay Estate pours a bright silver/yellow hue with pear, melon, spice, fresh flowers, fennel, and saline minerality. Medium to full-bodied, it remains light on its feet, with refreshing acidity, a waxy texture, and a cleansing finish. Drink 2026-2032.

Coming from the North Coast of Sonoma County, the 2023 Pinot Noir Taylor Peak Vineyard is a medium red hue and is perfumed with rosewater, preserved cranberry, clementine, pomegranate, and sweet herbs. Medium-bodied, it has an angular structure, well-defined tannins, and tangy lift without veering green. I expect it to improve with another 6-12 months and continue showing well over the following 12-15 years.

The 2023 Chardonnay Tidal Break Vineyard is a bright silver/yellow color and comes from a site within five miles of the ocean, neighboring Peay, Hirsch, and Wayfarer territory. Bright, lifted aromatics of citrus blossom, chalky earth, lemon verbena, pear, sherbet, and sea spray emerge from the glass. Medium-bodied, it has refreshing acidity and a chalky texture. I really like where this is heading and think it’s worth holding back for a couple years. Drink 2027-2040.

Pouring a deeply coating purple hue, the 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon Réserve
Spéciale leans into lushness and plush fruit while retaining freshness and
acidity. Monte Rosso fruit contributes later-ripening character and naturally
bright acidity, which shines beautifully in this blend after 32 months in barrel.
Plum, blackberry, floral perfume, mountain herbs, and mint all emerge from the
glass. Drink 2026-2040.

The 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Petit Verdot, with more Petit Verdot included this vintage because Hélène preferred the blend. Pouring a youthful saturated red/black hue, it offers blackcurrants, cedar, toast, black cherries, baked earth, and mocha. Full-bodied, with plush tannins, very good length, and admirable balance in this hot vintage, this wine is a clear step up from the Cabernet Franc in terms of refinement. Drink 2026-2038.

The 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Montana is deep and inviting with polished cassis, plum, rocky earth, lavender oils, and polished cedar. Fullbodied, it has ripe tannins with a subtle chalky edge and a more approachable personality in this more immediate vintage. Drink over the coming 10-12 years. Drink 2026-2036.

A golden hue in the glass, this bottling hits the nose with intriguing aromas of lemon verbena, tonic and sour cream. The palate is grippy and vibrant, offering grapefruit peel flavors that will evolve with time. Drink now-2033.

The 2022 Windracer Taylor Peak Pinot Noir from Bennett Valley reveals a saturated ruby core edged with flashes of purple that signal its depth and vibrancy. Aromas drift upward in layered waves, blending wild blueberry, crushed violets, and spiced strawberry compote with a faint echo of pine resin. On the palate, the wine broadens with concentrated notes of black raspberry, ripe plum skin, and a twist of citrus oil that adds brightness to the darker fruit profile. Fine-grained tannins frame the medium-bodied structure while moderate plus acidity lifts the finish, giving the wine both clarity and momentum. 160 cases produced.

The 2022 Windracer Edmeades Vineyard Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley, aged ten months in thirty percent new French oak, opens with a translucent ruby hue that leans gently toward rose. Scents of wild strawberries, pink peppercorn, and crushed lavender mingle with airy hints of citrus peel and soft cedar, giving the wine an inviting aromatic lift. On the palate, red cherry and tart pomegranate notes stretch across a medium-bodied frame, accented by subtle touches of spiced fennel and blood orange rind that add complexity. High acidity keeps the wine vibrant while taut tannins provide shape and definition, leading to a clean, focused finish. 203 cases made.

The 2022 Windracer Saralee’s Vineyard Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley shows a luminous lemon silver core that reflects its freshness and clarity. Aromas of dried lemon zest, ginger candy, underripe pineapple, and hints of white tea and white nectarine weave together with lifted precision. On the palate, the wine turns more luxurious, offering generous layers of white nectarine, apricot skin, and lemon verbena supported by high acidity that keeps the medium bodied frame lively. Ten months in 15 percent new French oak lend subtle structure without overshadowing the fruit. The finish lingers with poise, rounding out this beautifully expressive Chardonnay. 166 cases made.

The 2022 Windracer Estate Chardonnay from Alexander Mountain opens with a pale lemon straw hue and a lifted bouquet of wet sandstone, dried honeysuckle, subtle lime zest, and dried hay. On the palate, the wine gains richness, presenting white nectarine, white peppercorn, and soft herbal tones that broaden its expression. Sixteen months in neutral French oak barrels and puncheons contribute gentle roundness without overt spice, allowing the moderate body and graceful acidity to stay front and center. The finish is long, elegant, and quietly persistent, showcasing both the purity of the site and the precision of the winemaking. Pair this with poached chicken in a lemon-herb broth, served over silky polenta with fresh chives. 130 cases made.

The 2023 Siduri Skycrest Vineyard Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley is a vibrant and textural expression aged for 14 months in 20% new French oak. Aromas of crushed black cherry, blue plum skin, and wild herbs lift from the glass, joined by hints of rose petal, cedar shavings, and baking spice. The palate glides with flavors of ripe blueberry, blood orange, and forest berries layered with touches of cacao, clove, and a whisper of sandalwood. The tannins are polished yet persistent, guiding the wine toward a graceful, extended finish that leaves traces of fruit and spice intertwined. 150 cases made.

The 2024 Siduri Parsons' Vineyard Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley carries its richness with class, shaped by ripe tannins and a generous, rounded core. Black raspberry, pomegranate, crushed rose, fir needle, and damp woodland accents move through a juicy, layered palate. There is ample fruit, yet the wine stays composed, with savory lift and enough structural breadth to keep the plushness in balance. The finish is clean, inviting, and quietly earthy, leaving a graceful tone across the palate.

The 2024 Siduri Seascape Vineyard Pinot Noir from the West Sonoma Coast is shaped by coastal snap and a vivid, translucent red-fruited profile. Sea spray, crushed pomegranate, alpine strawberry, bay leaf, and a trace of clove move through a medium-bodied frame with crisp acidity and finely drawn tension. The wine feels lifted rather than weighty, carrying its freshness with poise and immediate charm through the saline and red-fruit finish.

The 2022 Maggy Hawk Stormin Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley was aged for 16 months in 53% neutral and 47% new French oak and stands as a powerful and brooding expression in the lineup. It bursts from the glass with aromas of black plum, crushed blueberry, and violets wrapped in accents of cocoa, toasted cedar, and nutmeg. The palate is dense yet refined, carrying a core of blackberry compote, cassis, and licorice root layered with hints of espresso and clove. Despite its richness, the acidity brings lift and focus, keeping the wine balanced and vibrant throughout. Fine-grained tannins shape a lengthy, savory finish tinged with dark chocolate and stony minerality. 189 cases were made.

The 2022 Maggy Hawk Afleet Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley spent 16 months in 100% neutral French oak and showcases purity, tension, and grace in equal measure. Composed of 60% whole-cluster fermentation, this wine opens with aromas of red currant, wild strawberry, and dried hibiscus layered with notes of pine needle, sage, and dusty loam. The palate unfolds with elegant restraint, weaving together flavors of tart cherry and blood orange framed by fine, slightly rustic tannins. With air, subtler tones of tea leaf, forest moss, and spice emerge, bringing an earthy sophistication that speaks to its site. The lack of new oak allows the fruit’s natural vibrancy to shine, giving the wine lift and clarity from start to finish. 160 cases were made.

The 2022 Maggy Hawk Skycrest Vineyard Chardonnay from Anderson Valley spent 16 months in 25% new French oak and reveals both tension and elegance in perfect balance. Grown at high elevation on the estate’s wind-swept slopes, this Chardonnay opens with aromas of white nectarine, Meyer lemon, and honeysuckle layered with hints of almond skin and wet stone. The palate is supple yet vibrant, carrying flavors of golden apple, pear tart, and chamomile that glide across a silken texture. A subtle undercurrent of mineral and spice lends structure and energy, while delicate oak tones of brioche and vanilla bean quietly support the fruit. The zippy finish is pure and extended, lingering with notes of citrus peel and hazelnut cream. 359 cases were made.