Deep ruby-red. Terrific lift to the aromas of cassis, licorice, mint, minerals and bitter chocolate, accented by herbs and rose petal. The middle palate offers outstanding depth for 2011, as well as terrific definition and energy to the dark berry, nutmeg and cassis leaf flavors. Finishes classically dry, with subtle building length. Seillan told me he uses the malbec for spice, not to add color or volume. A huge success for the vintage.

Good deep red-ruby. Complex aromas of cherry, plum, musky brown spices, licorice and menthol lifted by a floral topnote. Quite dry and youthfully imploded initially, then opened to show a creamy sweetness and growing pliancy to its red fruit and mineral flavors. This has firmed up since I saw it in barrel a year ago, while La Joie has become more harmonious. The most tannic of this outstanding trio of 2007s today, with the structure for a long and positive evolution in bottle.

Bright ruby-red. Black fruits, licorice and cedar on the nose. Broad and round but backward, with a distinctly medicinal reserve to the flavors of black fruits, menthol and smoke. The middle palate is currently dominated by the wine's spine and yet the very long finish is lush and sweet. The least obviously minerally of these three 2006s today, but offers great potential.

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot, 10% cabernet franc and 5% petit verdot) Bright ruby-red. Black and blue fruits complicated by licorice, minerals and fresh herbs on the nose. Rich, broad, lush and full, even if it conveys less easy sweetness and personality today than the Muse (but then this is Seillan's Pauillac-style blend). Best today on the sensational back half, which features a major coating of suave tannins and an extremely long, aromatic finish that reverberates with subtle floral tones. Interestingly, this cabernet-based wine has a higher pH than the merlot-based Muse: 3.78 vs. 3.64.

Good bright ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of cassis, black cherry, graphite, iron, tobacco, menthol and spice cake. Lush and broad on entry, then sweeter and lusher in the middle palate than the Muse, with a captivating chocolatey quality and outstanding volume. As rich and full as this is, there's no sense of excess weight. Finishes long, dense and palate-saturating with major dusty tannins. This Pauillac is sweeter and deeper than Seillan's Pomerol, a comment on the comparative quality of cabernet sauvignon and merlot in California's North Coast.

Very pale yellow. Captivating nose combines exotic apricot, white plum, crushed rock, brown spices and a lavender high note. Intense and tactile on entry, then tightly coiled and penetrating in the middle, a step up over the foregoing wines in its impression of acid spine. Very powerful, youthfully aggressive, palate-staining wine that will need time in bottle to open and expand. Less thick and sweet at the same stage than the 2008, but at the same time more glycerol than the 2009 Gravel Bench. A great example of a California chardonnay, by which I mean that I would not mistake it for Burgundy in a blind tasting.

Aromas of fresh blackberries, forest floor, trumpet mushrooms and violets. The mediumbodied palate is very lifted but darkly fruited, with long, silky tannins. Drink or hold.

A complex and graceful medium-bodied wine with aromas of pine resin, pine duff, rose garden, grilled herbs, ripe red cherries and golden raspberries. Silky and complete on the palate, with succulent acidity and a long finish. Delightful. Drink or hold.

Floral and red-fruited, showing aromas of spices and citrus peel. Nicely integrated tannins and acidity support a seamless medium body that carries flavors of tangerines and bing cherries. Bright and elegant. Drink or hold.

The first vintage of this wine, showing aromas of dark red fruit and ripe raspberries. The plush, medium-bodied palate reveals flavors of dried cranberries and fresh bing cherries with silky yet firm tannins. Delicious now, but can age. Drink or hold.

A layered and complex wine that’s earthy and minerally. Aromas of rose petals, lavender,
slate and pine forest. On the palate, bright and tart red fruit mingle with dark cherry and
tangerine flavors. Bergamot tea, pleasing bitter floral and unsweetened cocoa notes in the
finish. Medium-bodied. Drink or hold.

A showcase of Washington Merlot from Mill Creek, the all-varietal 2023 Merlot Skysill Vineyard is a Cab drinker’s Merlot, burly and powerful in iron, gravel, and savory, grippy tannins. Full-bodied, it needs time to unwind, the structure of the wine impressively complex after 20 months in 50% new French oak. Baked plum and cassis rise to the fore of an otherwise herbaceous, Old World canvas of leathery black pepper. Hold and drink 2030–2038.

From a 2,220-feet elevation site, the 2023 Chardonnay Skycrest Vineyard opens in earthy celery root that leads the way to medium-bodied layers of quenching peach, pear, and citrus. There's impressive length and balance to the wine, its herbaceousness compelling amidst balanced acidity and plenty of complexity. Drink now through 2035.

The 2022 WillaKenzie Estate Single Vineyard Pinot Noir from Yamhill-Carlton represents a comprehensive portrait of the property, utilizing a mosaic of fruit from across various vineyard blocks to capture the site's terroir. On the nose, bright scents of mountain raspberry and red currant intermingle with forest floor and a dash of dried sage. The palate is impressively concentrated, delivering a plush mouthful of ripe Bing cherries and marionberry accented by a distinct streak of wild mountain herbs. Fine-grained tannins provide a sturdy frame for the red-fruit core, leading to a clean, continuous finish.

The NV WillaKenzie Estate Eclatant, Yamhill-Carlton is a striking multi-vintage blend consisting of 48% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, with the remaining 12% rounded out by Pinot Meunier. This Oregon sparkling wine displays a concentrated core of tangerine custard and marzipan on the palate, highlighted by bursts of preserved lemon zest and a fine, silken mousse. Heady scents of toasted croissant and Meyer lemon curd emerge early on, underscored by an elegant white blossom perfume that adds significant aromatic depth. The finish is defined by a plush, velvety texture and remarkable richness that lingers with luxury.

The NV Gran Moraine Brut Rosé from Yamhill-Carlton represents a sophisticated bottling, spending four years en tirage to develop a remarkably creamy, fine-beaded texture. The aromatic profile shifts away from standard fare toward nuanced notes of yellow apple, white nectarine, and toasted brioche as delicate layers of peach and wild red currant lead the way. On the palate, a persistent mineral vein grounds the wine, while a modest 5 g/L dosage allows the natural brightness of pink grapefruit to define the long, refreshing finish alongside the delicate mousse.

The 2023 Penner-Ash Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir opens with a striking medium ruby hue accented by a vibrant, neon-red perimeter. Sourced from this iconic site, the wine delivers an aromatic profile defined by mountain strawberry, Bing cherry, crushed rose petals, and a smooch of spice, underpinned by a delicate dusting of allspice. The medium-bodied palate is remarkably seamless, where polished tannins and a bright acid line provide a sophisticated frame for flavors of tart raspberries and fresh mandarin orange zest. It concludes with an elegant, uplifted finish that emphasizes the refined character of the vintage.

Generous and expressive yet refined, this Pinot offers tiers of raspberry, cranberry, orange
peel and black tea that sail on the alluring finish. Drink now through 2035

Supple and alluring yet keenly structured, with fragrant raspberry and guava flavors layered
with rose petal, cinnamon and other dusky spices as this builds richness on the finish.
Drink now through 2035.

Robust yet refined, with detailed flavors of blueberry and raspberry framed by cinnamon,
clove and forest floor tones as this builds tension toward broad-shouldered tannins. Drink
now through 2035.

Rich and polished yet keenly structured, with deep flavors of black cherry and raspberry
accented by fresh violet, forest floor and cinnamon, finishing with fine-grained tannins.
Drink now through 2035.

A fragrant and compelling Pinot that’s richly structured, offering black raspberry and cherry
flavors highlighted by orange peel and cinnamon, plus hints of stony mineral. Finishes with
refined tannins. Drink now through 2035.

The Mt. Brave Vineyard sits on the high elevation site of Mt. Veeder — with vines planted at about 1,400 to 1,800 feet above sea level. High above the Napa Valley fog line, these vines enjoy one of the longest growing seasons in the region, leading to an elegant expression of Malbec. The nose is dominated by dark fruit and savory notes. Aged for 22 months in French oak barrels, the palate is rich and plush with blackberry jam and stewed strawberries. Soft, edgy tannins reflect the rugged mountain terroir.

From the rocky, windy and wild site, Sierra Mar, in the southern end of the appellation, with blocks coming from the upper blocks of Sierra Mar. It's a warmer pocket, says winemaker Matt Revelette. An interesting mix of clones, some Pisoni, a Swiss clone, with elegant notes of violets, seaspray, and blood orange. Salty and savoury to the fore on the palate, ripe berries, purple sage and wild thyme.

This vineyard is 12 miles from the coast, so it yields lively red berry and red plum fruit tinged by dried herbs. The palate has greater intensity, offering black tea, cardamom, and citrus zest, with delicacy on the finish. The wine has a long life ahead. Cellar until 2034 or aerate and enjoy the ride.